Every Christmas trip to India during our ten years in the Netherlands ended up being 100% about family—our grand stopover dreams (Istanbul, Dubai, Muscat) always took a backseat.
This December 2025, with 32 vacation days and a baby on the way, I was determined to finally break the pattern. Entering my second trimester feeling energized, and knowing how much life shifts post-baby, I wanted to seize the moment.
We needed a warm, peaceful spot for short hikes and great food—no chaotic megacities. Dubai and Istanbul were out; Muscat, Oman won. Its slow pace, warm weather, and welcoming vibe hit every mark. We booked a two-to-three-day stopover for our return leg, ready to finally make it happen.
The Journey Begins: Lucknow & Narora
On December 18th, two flights via Mumbai brought us to a chilly, foggy Lucknow. The airport was surprisingly calm, slow-paced, and clean—a peaceful welcome before my father-in-law picked us up. After a short drive, my mother-in-law welcomed us with open arms.
Unlike past trips, there were no motorcycle road trips or packed schedules; it was purely about unwinding. We spent ten relaxing days in Lucknow followed by two quiet weeks at my hometown in Narora.
Eventually, craving a bit more adventure, I pitched a wild idea to Aashish: extend our Oman stopover from three days to eight. He teased that I was just getting bored at home, but he agreed! On January 13th, a quick three-and-a-half-hour flight from New Delhi brought us straight to Muscat.
Day 1 & 2 - Exploring Muscat: A Warm Welcome
We planned a 7-day road trip through Oman, and renting a 4x4 is hands-down the best way to explore without limits. Right after landing and clearing immigration at Muscat Airport, we picked up our rental—a Hyundai Tucson 4x4. The rental options are huge, prices are reasonable, and booking through Enterprise made the process quick and seamless. In no time, we threw our luggage in the back and were ready to hit the road!
📍 Mutrah District
Our plan for day one was to explore Muscat. After a 30-minute drive from the airport, we checked into Mutrah Hotel—perfectly located near the souq and plenty of eateries. Since we booked last minute, only a small room was available, but they kindly upgraded us to a king-size bed! The room was comfortable, complete with all the essential amenities and a sparkling clean bathroom.
After dropping our bags at the hotel, we headed to Tea Time Café right outside—a spot suggested by the receptionist. I was thrilled to find so many great vegetarian options; I grabbed a date shake and a falafel sandwich, while Aashish opted for a burger and mocha. Everything was delicious and top quality.
Soaking in the 25°C warmth and a light breeze, I was over the moon to finally feel summery weather. Muscat’s wonderfully relaxed vibe completely matched my Instagram expectations! It was also a fun surprise to hear Hindi spoken all around us and see the café entirely run by Indians.
From there, we walked down into Mutrah Souq. It is a traditional market filled with narrow alleys, and the whole place smells like frankincense and local perfumes. The stalls are packed with colorful textiles, spices, and lamps, which gives it a very classic old-world feel.
Afterward, we walked along the Mutrah Corniche, the waterfront promenade. It was nice to catch the sea breeze, but we quickly discovered a unique quirk of the area: there are very few pedestrian crosswalks. Crossing the busy street to the other side took some careful timing and became a bit of a strategic adventure.
Later that evening, we walked about a kilometer to a famous Lebanese Restaurant that Aashish was really keen to try. Unfortunately, the place was completely packed and they had no space left for us. We went ahead and made a reservation for the next night instead. Since we were hungry, we walked back toward our hotel and settled for a pretty average dinner at the Royal Cafe nearby before heading to bed. By 10:00 PM, we were back, and after all the exploring and travel, I fell asleep in no time.
📍 City Sights & Coasts
Our second day in Muscat was originally supposed to be a boat trip to the Daymaniyat Islands. But as we researched more, we realized it wasn’t a good idea after all. The island is famous for water sports like scuba diving and boat riding, and during pregnancy, none of those felt safe or comfortable. We dropped the plan entirely and decided to just chill and spend the day exploring the city at our own pace.
Since it was a dedicated relaxation day, we started quite late, finally waking up around 10:00 AM. We quickly grabbed a sandwich and a cappuccino to fuel up, and then drove over to the Mall of Oman.
The weather was incredibly sunny, and we knew we had quite a bit of walking ahead of us, so we needed to buy some caps and proper shoes. While wandering the corridors, we found a shop called Brands for Less. The name caught our eye immediately, so it was the first place we checked out. We ended up buying two caps and a t-shirt. Afterward, we spent some time just roaming around the rest of the mall. Most of the brands were completely unknown to us, and it was really interesting to see just how many local Arabic perfume shops there were.
Interestingly, we didn't end up at the exact main beach area. Google Maps guided us to a spot just before it, which turned out to be just as beautiful but with far fewer people. From a distance, the water looked a bit cold to us, though a few Europeans were happily swimming in the ocean. Unfortunately, we weren't prepared to jump in anyway, since we hadn't brought any towels or spare clothes. Right near us, two guys were chilling on their foldable camping chairs, accompanied by two of the cutest dogs that trotted over to say hello to us.
Our last stop for the afternoon was the Qurum Natural Reserve. There were no clear directions on how to get in, and we didn't see anyone else visiting, but we made our way inside anyway. Entry was free, and the landscape was fascinating—the vegetation was very different from what I am used to, quite dry and thorny, with paths that wound uphill and downhill. I could easily imagine how beautiful the scenery would look later in the evening light.
After a short walk through the reserve, we headed back to our room for a quick nap. When we stepped out again later, the atmosphere in Muscat had completely changed—it was suddenly so lively! Because it was a holiday followed by the weekend, the roads were filled with families and kids enjoying the time off.
We made our way to the Lebanese restaurant we had booked the day before.The restaurant provided a very authentic experience. After the receptionist checked our name on the reservation list, we were asked to wait in a waiting area before an attendant called us to our table. The waiting area was deeply traditional; we sat on the floor on beautiful rugs and plush pillows, which felt incredibly unique. After about 15 to 20 minutes of waiting, the waiter called us and informed us that only indoor seating was available. For vegetarian options, it was mostly Indian dishes and pasta, so we ordered a mixed vegetable curry, rotis, salad, and pasta. Amusingly, it looked like the pasta and the veg curry were made using the exact same gravy, which was so heavy on tomatoes that you could never imagine a curry like that in India! In any case, the food was very fresh, and we felt absolutely no guilt or heavy stomach afterward. With a full tummy and a great impression of Muscat, we walked happily hand-in-hand along the promenade back to our hotel.
Day 3 : Architecture, Oases, and Ancient Legends
We woke up early the next morning, but just as we were about to leave our room, the electricity went off. That meant the hotel elevators completely stopped working. We had three big trolley bags, one small bag, and two backpacks to bring down from our room. Since I wasn't going to be of much help in my condition, we went downstairs to the reception to ask for assistance. The receptionist kindly sent two boys up to carry all our bags down. Before leaving Muscat, we wanted to grab some breakfast, so we headed to our usual spot at Tea Time Café, but the power blackout had hit them too, so they weren't taking any orders. Feeling a bit hungry, we just went to a supermarket and grabbed a few snacks to hit the road.
📍 Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
After a 20-minute drive, we arrived at our first destination for the day. The drive to the mosque felt like quite an adventure, weaving through sharp bends and downhill roads. I had seen this mosque in a lot of travel videos and knew exactly how beautiful it was, as well as the strict dress code you have to adhere to before entering. Aashish was wearing fully covered clothes, and I wore a special kaftan that I had bought in Morocco—finally, I had a perfect reason to use it! However, as prepared as I thought I was, I completely forgot to bring a scarf to cover my head. I had to buy one at the entrance shop, which was quite expensive, but I had no other option. The lady at the shop was very sweet and helped me wrap the scarf properly around my head.
The mosque has no entry fee. As soon as we stepped past the entrance, it felt like entering an entirely different world filled with desert greenery and marble beauty from every single angle. There was a massive dome right in front of us, and I couldn't wait to get inside. Just before entering the actual building, you have to take your shoes off. There are multiple entrances, so a good tip is to remember exactly which gate you used to enter! Every nook and corner of the mosque was grand and artistic. When we entered the main prayer hall, we were awestruck by the beautiful chandeliers, especially the central one, which is absolutely massive. Pictures really don't do justice to the grandeur of this place. We spent about 45 minutes exploring before heading out, as the mosque closes to non-Muslim visitors at 11:00 AM.
📍 Bimmah Sinkhole
After experiencing the urban sightseeing of Muscat and the beauty of the Grand Mosque, we headed out toward nature. It might sound funny to think of a desert country having a lot of nature, but Oman has more mountains and natural landscapes than you could ever imagine. We drove for about an hour and a half along the highways with mountains constantly in sight. I was particularly impressed by the infrastructure in Oman; the highways were in amazing condition, and the driving experience was so relaxed and tension-free.
The mountains here are very different from what you see in India or Europe. They are completely dry and sandy, dark in color, with no greenery whatsoever. The dark color gives the scenery a very unique, almost mysterious effect. Since I wasn't the one driving, I spent a lot of time observing the surroundings. I noticed the small urban areas en route, where almost all the buildings were painted white and kept quite low. White color is preferred because it helps keep the houses cool during the scorching summer months.
After an hour and a half of chatting, listening to music, and enjoying the views, we arrived at the Bimmah Sinkhole. In Arabic, it's called Hawaiyat Najm. There was a decent amount of tourists there, but as soon as we got out of the car, the heat hit us. It immediately made me wonder how hot this country must get during the peak summer. We parked the car, took a much-needed restroom break, and walked about ten minutes from the entrance to see this natural wonder. Legend says that the sinkhole was created when a meteor fell to earth, but the real, less dramatic story is that it was formed by the collapse of limestone. It is a beautiful place, and you have to climb down a long flight of concrete stairs to reach the bottom.
The water is a crystal-clear green, making it a perfect spot for swimming. Unfortunately, neither of us are swimmers, so we didn't try it, though swimming is definitely a skill I plan to learn very soon. We spent some time admiring the beauty, watching kids and adults splash around, snapped some pictures from different angles, and made our way back up.
📍 Wadi Shab
The next item on our busy itinerary was this famous valley. A wadi refers to a dry riverbed or a valley in desert regions. It was incredibly nice to see some greenery and feel a cooler breeze in such a barren landscape. This wadi is famous for hiking, and as you walk deeper into the valley, there are multiple natural pools waiting for you one after the other. As excited as we were to see the final pool, we hadn't come prepared with the right gear—like proper hiking shoes or swimming clothes—since our initial plan for the trip had only been to explore Muscat. Because of that, we decided to just go to the first pool and chill. Aashish even managed to take a quick power nap there.
To reach the starting point of the hike on the other side of the river, you have to get into a small wooden boat, which costs 1 OMR per person.
Up until this point, we hadn't needed any physical cash because credit cards worked almost everywhere. Luckily, we had some Euro coins in our pockets, and the boatman accepted them, which was a huge relief! After a one-minute boat ride, we were on the other side. The area was quite green, filled with date and banana plantations, with the river flowing right alongside massive rock cliffs. It was a very interesting landscape.
As we walked ahead, the path was mostly flat and easy, covered in small pebbles. There were lots of people hiking in the same direction, and after about 30 minutes, we reached a spot that looked like a pool, though it wasn't the official main pool of Wadi Shab. We pulled out our food—bananas, apples, and juice—and rested under the cool shade of the rocks while some people took a dip in the water.
While walking back to the boat point, we saw a wooden boat waiting for us, but the driver was a young kid who looked no older than 10 years old! Not only I, but the other tourists as well, felt a bit skeptical about getting in. I'm sure the other tourists were swimmers, but since we weren't, we were extra cautious. However, a local guide called out to us to get in, so with a bit of apprehension and nervous smiles, we jumped aboard and made it across safely.
📍 Sur Town
From the wadi, we drove toward the coastal town of Sur, where we had planned to stay for the night. We still had two spots to check out: Sur Beach and the Al Ayjah Lighthouse. However, we decided to check into our hotel first to freshen up. We didn’t realize it at the time, but the price we paid for that comfort was missing the sunset entirely. In any case, the drive to the hotel was amazing; we saw people camping right on the beaches, and I was so tempted to do the same. It was really cool to see so many big off-road cars and to realize how popular the camping culture is in Oman.
After checking in and getting freshen up, we drove over to see the lighthouse. I had seen beautiful pictures of it online and was very keen to click a photo like that, but the sunset was already over. Even in the dusk light, the lighthouse looked beautiful, situated in a very unexpected spot overlooking the harbor and Sur town. We walked around, clicked some pictures, and headed back to the hotel after a light dinner.
Day 4 : Into the Desert & Ancient Kingdoms
Our main plan for the day was to reach the desert, stay in a traditional camp, do some stargazing, and just relax. There are so many adventure activities to do in the desert, but we decided to save those for next time. We started our morning at a very relaxed pace since breakfast was available at the hotel between 7:00 AM and 10:00 AM. We woke up, showered, and by 8:30 AM, we were in the breakfast hall. We thought we were early, but the hall was already completely full of people!
There were outdoor and indoor seating options, and the outdoor seating looked very tempting since it was right in front of a big swimming pool on a bright, sunny day. However, it turned out to be much windier than what felt comfortable, so we stayed inside. We filled our plates with bread, jam, butter, juice, and even some Indian options like upma. We chatted about our plans for the day while enjoying our food, then headed back to our room, packed our bags, checked out, and drove toward our first stop: a viewpoint of Sur town from a nearby hill.
The highest point of the hill was incredibly steep. I was fine with going up, but Aashish hesitated to drive the rental car up such a sharp incline, so we settled for a different hill that was slightly less steep. The view from there was awesome anyway—you could see the ancient fort, the blue ocean, the Al Ayjah suspension bridge, and the lighthouse. It was a perfect, still moment; it wasn't too warm or too cold, and it wasn't chaotic at all since there were hardly any tourists around. We visited during the day, but TripAdvisor mentioned that it becomes a magical place during sunset. We wanted to climb one of the nearby forts, but there was no official or proper path to reach it except by scrambling over boulders and dodging waves. We decided against being that adventurous in my condition, so we just sat on a bench admiring the morning tranquility. We watched locals fishing, little kids getting excited over catching tiny fish, and a few colorful fishing boats that added a bright pop of color to the atmosphere.
One unique thing I noticed in Oman is how people carry their own foldable camping chairs absolutely everywhere. Whether it’s a taxi driver waiting around or a fisherman by the water, everyone seems to have one.
📍 Wadi Bani Khalid
With that beautiful sight behind us, we drove toward our next destination. The great thing about this wadi is that you don’t have to walk very far at all to reach the natural pools. The drive to the location was quite adventurous, featuring steep downhills and sharp hairpin turns. To be honest, the roads in Oman were far more mountainous and thrilling than we had anticipated, which made the journey very exciting. I was dying to drive the whole time, but we had only taken out one driving permit since I am taking things easy this time around.
After navigating the steep downhill road, we reached the parking spot, which was completely packed. After waiting about ten minutes, we finally found a space. The proper walking path to the wadi was still under construction, and for anyone who didn't want to walk, there were e-rickshaws available. We chose to walk, and as we approached the pools, the vibe felt incredibly festive. There were lots of Omani families enjoying their chai and several Indian families sharing big plates of biryani. The air was filled with amazing, rich flavors! We hiked a little bit further up, checked out a few of the pools, snapped some pictures, and were soon on our way back. We were running a bit short on time because we had to meet our desert guide in the town of Bidiya by 2:30 PM.
📍 Wahiba Sands (Sharqiya Sands)
After a one-hour drive from the wadi, we reached Bidiya, a small, sleepy desert town. We hadn't eaten anything all day, so we were looking for a place to get some food packed. We found a tiny Indian restaurant, but they didn't have many vegetarian options available except for dal chawal (lentils and rice). We got two plates packed to go and headed straight to the meeting point.
When we arrived, we found out there were two options for entering the desert: we could either drive ourselves or hire guides who had heavy-duty Land Cruisers and Fortuners, which have much better suspension for the dunes. Considering that I am pregnant, the guide suggested that I might want to ride in their car for an additional fee. From this point onward, the road was going to be completely off-road, consisting of sand dunes and some bumpy stretches. However, I had a feeling we would manage just fine in our car since it was a proper 4x4, and I trusted Aashish’s smooth driving completely.
So off we went! Our convoy consisted of four cars: our Hyundai Tucson, another family in the exact same car, a Fortuner, and a Land Cruiser. After just five to ten minutes of driving, we hit the sand. Before tackling the off-road tracks, we had to stop and deflate our tires; otherwise, the car would jump around violently in the sand. Later into the drive, we came across a very unique police checkpoint that was manually checking to ensure that every single car heading deep into the desert was a legitimate 4x4. As we moved ahead, the track became a proper desert road, with plenty of ups and downs but nothing too crazy.
About 25 minutes into the drive, we hit a stretch of sand that was incredibly steep and corrugated. That specific stretch lasted for a few minutes and actually made me regret, for a split second, that I hadn't taken the guide's Land Cruiser! Thankfully, that rough patch was over quickly. At this point, I started seeing lots of camping huts and desert lodges all around us—some run by large companies and others completely independent. As we drove further, the huts became fewer and fewer, and it felt like we were heading really deep into the desert, though we hadn't reached our specific camp yet. Driving in the sand looked so fun that I turned to Aashish and said we should definitely do a multi-day desert safari sometime in the future. The tracks were well laid out and quite broad. Some of the bigger cars in our group veered off onto less-used, highly adventurous tracks, but for us, it was wiser to stay safely on the main path, so we did just that.
After another ten to fifteen minutes of driving, we finally spotted the Starry Domes, which was our camping site for the night. We arrived around 3:30 PM, and I couldn't wait to watch the sunset across the beautiful, 360-degree open landscape. I have to say, I liked the desert in Oman much more than the one in Morocco—the dunes aren't excessively high, and they have a gorgeous, deep orangish color.
After a quick check-in, we walked over to our dome. When we unlocked the door, I was so surprised by how luxurious the setup was for such a remote location. It was a fully furnished geometric dome with a luxurious bed, powerful AC, a full-fledged attached bathroom, and a massive window looking right out onto the empty desert. After freshening up, the very first thing we did was sit on the sofa, sipping green tea while chatting about how wonderful the place was. A bit later, we sat out on our private terrace to appreciate the landscape, and then took a short walk to the nearby dunes to watch the professional 4x4s driving up and down the steep slopes. It was hard to process how those cars could climb dunes that looked almost 90 degrees steep!
However, as the sun began to go down, the sheer number of jeeps on the nearby dunes became a bit annoying. We were sitting on a quiet dune trying to watch the sunset, but the loud, revving engines of the jeeps stole the serenity and peace of the moment. We still had plenty of time before dinner, so I decided to sit down and start reading a book called Manifest that I had borrowed from my sister. When it was time for dinner, the food turned out to be simple, healthy, and delicious—they served rajma beans, mixed veggies, fresh bread, and soup. After eating, we went back out onto our private deck to do some stargazing. I can safely say I have never seen so many stars in the sky in my entire life; the clusters were incredibly dense. Aashish pulled out a stargazing app on his phone and showed me all the different constellations above us.
We sat out there for at least 30 minutes before deciding to head inside, only to discover that our dome door was completely locked! We had left the door closed but unlocked when we stepped out, so the key was sitting right inside on the bed. It was 9:45 PM, and we were terrified that the staff might have already gone to sleep, so Aashish rushed over to the main reception to see if anyone could help. Luckily, two guys from the reception came over with a spare key and opened the door for us. It was the only adventure of the day that we didn't really need! Before we knew it, we were fast asleep.
Day 5 : Ancient Nizwa and the Ruins of Birkat Al Mouz
Our day started early, and I woke up feeling incredibly fresh in the chilly desert morning. After freshening up, Aashish and I were debating whether we should take a shower first or head straight to breakfast. I always prefer showering first, so we did that. Even though the morning was cold, the sun had come out perfectly, and the warmth felt amazing on our skin. We walked over to the breakfast area, grabbed our food, and sat out on the balcony in the sunlight. We took our sweet time, discussing our plans for the day. On this entire trip, I was truly a "passenger princess" in every sense of the word; I hadn’t done much research beyond a high-level look, and I just followed Aashish blindly. He never disappoints and had planned everything meticulously, just like always.
By the time we walked back to our dome, most of the other guests had already checked out and left. We drove away from the campsite around 10:30 AM. On the way back, I didn't even realize how the 45-minute drive through the sand passed by, and in no time, we were back on the smooth tarmac. As soon as we hit the main road, the very first thing we had to do was find a shop to get our tire pressure back to normal. We found one shop, but the queue of cars was incredibly long.
While waiting, there were so many cars in Oman that caught my attention, but one that I absolutely fell in love with was the Toyota FJ Cruiser. It’s a retro-style off-roader, and the sheer number of them that I saw in Oman definitely means it is a highly capable car loved by the locals. I had read online that Toyota actually discontinued it and launched an upgraded model under the Land Cruiser line. I spotted a beautiful one right there at the tire shop and just couldn't take my eyes off it—it was a bright yellow color, heavily modified with custom fenders, and I stared at it for quite a while.
Our next destination was a scenic viewpoint overlooking some ancient ruins and a famous irrigation channel. Driving in Oman was never boring because the landscape is so intensely mountainous. After about two hours of driving, we reached this viewpoint. It wasn't an official tourist spot or anything; it was just a concrete platform located near an electrical station that offered a beautiful panoramic view of vast green date plantations with crumbling ruins in the background. Reaching the platform was easy, but walking back down was a bit tricky because it was a gravel slope, and I was terrified of slipping and sliding in my flat, non-hiking loafers.
📍 Birkat Al Mouz Ruins
After enjoying the view, we drove down into the actual ruins we had just seen from above. Birkat Al Mouz is the name of the place. It is a ruined mud-brick city where you can walk directly through the ancient abandoned houses, though you have to be very mindful because the pathways are steep, uneven, and slippery. Entry to the site is completely free.
Right inside one of these renovated ruins, a local family has opened a branch of Cafe Anat. We stopped in and had some cheesecake and cold coffee, which tasted amazing. The café felt incredibly authentic—it was beautifully renovated but hadn't lost any of its old-world charm. There was an outdoor seating area, but since it was quite sunny and hot, we grabbed a table inside. It was a short break, but well worth it.
We also wanted to visit the famous Falaj irrigation system here, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. We asked several people around the ruins for directions, but no one seemed to understand what we were trying to ask. Eventually, we just kept walking on our own, and after ten minutes, we found ourselves standing in front of a massive banana plantation. The irrigation channels ran right through the middle of the trees, and the entire area was so huge that it was hard to decide which trail to take. Luckily, we ran into a local gentleman who suggested we just pick any trail and start walking. After walking about 1.5 kilometers, we wandered deep into one of the farms and just sat down by the rushing water to relax. As we were walking back to our car, I noticed another spot called the Banana Cafe, which is perched quite high up and looked like the perfect place to get an elevated view of the entire plantation.
📍 Nizwa Fort & City
Next, it was time to head toward Nizwa. After reading all about it online, it sounded like a deeply traditional and core city of Oman. In olden times, Nizwa used to be the capital of the country as well as a major trade center. But before we could do any sightseeing, we had to check into our apartment. The place was located a bit far from the historic center, right near a LuLu Hypermarket. The apartment was highly impressive—it was huge and even came with access to a swimming pool. This was going to be our base for the next three days, though our schedule ended up being so packed that we never actually got a chance to step into the pool!
After dumping our bags, freshening up, and taking a short nap, we drove over to the famous Nizwa Fort. I had read online that the streets get incredibly busy near the fort and that it’s a bad idea to drive right up to it, but we decided to take a chance anyway. We lucked out and found a free parking spot just before the narrow road that leads to the entrance. As a side note, parking seemed to be free absolutely everywhere we went in Oman.
It was just a short walk from the car to the fort. Built in the 17th century, it is one of the most famous historical sites in the country, containing a castle, a massive fort tower, and a café. The entire structure is preserved in mint condition and is huge in terms of area; just when you think you’ve explored it all, another doorway opens up into a whole new section. There was also an indoor museum displaying artifacts from traditional Omani culture.
It happened to be Ascension Day, so the entire area was incredibly busy. There were people and cars everywhere, and the atmosphere inside the fort walls was so lively. The view of the green palm oasis and the backdrop of the rugged mountains from the top of the circular tower was amazing—it is definitely a perfect spot for sunset photography. Every single corner of the fort was picture-perfect, and as night fell, the whole place came alive with golden lights and celebrations. The staff were even distributing free traditional Omani halwa and small cups of coffee to the visitors. We also got to witness a live cultural performance with traditional music and instruments, which felt very special. If you want to learn more about the history, you can also hire official guides right inside the gates. There were different stalls selling handmade pottery, and we got to watch the traditional way of making Arabic coffee over open flames.
After a few hours, we finally headed out of the fort. Walking through the surrounding market streets at night was amazing as well. It wasn't planned, but we stumbled upon a small oasis area just outside the walls and got to see exactly how the famous date halwa is manufactured in big vats. The streets were lined with cool cafés and juice shops, and since I had read about a popular fresh juice stall online, we stopped to try it. The juices were incredibly fresh and filling. By the time we headed back to our apartment, it was already 10:30 PM, so we decided to save the rest of the nearby sights for the next two days.
Day 6 & 7 : The High Peaks of the Hajar Mountains
Many people don't usually picture Oman as a mountainous country, but you would be surprised to know that it is actually one of the most mountainous regions in the Middle East. Today, we set out to explore those rugged peaks, which are known as the Hajar Mountain range. Jebel Shams is the highest peak in the country, reaching an altitude of 3,009 meters. The mountain villages have beautiful resorts scattered around, and at first, we thought about booking a room in one of them to enjoy the mountain views. However, the distance from Muscat was quite far, and since we had to head back to the capital afterward to catch our flight home, we figured it was wiser to stay base-camped in Nizwa and just do day trips into the mountains.
📍 Jebel Akhdar (The Green Mountain)
Our first destination for the day was Diana’s Viewpoint on Jebel Akhdar. Jebel Akhdar translates to "Green Mountain," and for good reason—it is famous for having a much cooler climate compared to the desert regions of Oman, allowing for lush fruit orchards, small villages, and beautiful terraced gardens. It takes about an hour to drive from Nizwa to the viewpoint along winding mountain roads, and the traffic signs along the way are very clear.
Seeing how bright and sunny the weather was when we left our apartment, I chose to wear my light kaftan. But as we gained altitude, the wind picked up and the weather turned quite cold; I soon regretted my choice of clothing! Perched right atop the hillside village of Al Aqr, the rocky plateau offers a fabulous panoramic view of Jebel Akhdar, the surrounding stone villages, and the terraced fields below. The sun was shining brightly, and the urge to just sit out in the sun and chill for a bit was real, but the freezing wind made it really hard to stand, so we were soon walking back to the warmth of our car.
📍 Wadi Bani Habib
Our next stop for the day was a hike through this strikingly picturesque valley, which is famous for its old stone ruins and abandoned walnut trees. Historically, this used to be an active hiking circuit that connected two separate villages, but in recent times, that specific loop has been officially closed. Navigating the paths can be a bit confusing; after parking our car, we initially followed some painted arrows pointing to the left and down. But after walking down a few stone stairs, we realized that the path didn't look actively used or safe, so we turned right around.
As we were climbing back up to the parking lot, we ran into a friendly gentleman who kindly guided us toward an alternative viewpoint that offered a clear look at both of the ruined villages. It turned out to be a bit of a tricky route—the path was quite narrow and felt a bit edgy at certain stretches. But after walking for about 15 minutes along this dirt track full of loose rocks, we reached a beautiful vantage point.
Seeing these rugged, rocky mountain terrains made the mountain lover in me feel instantly at home. I was happily jumping around from one boulder to another when I suddenly remembered that I am pregnant and really need to be a bit more careful! To make matters worse, neither of us were wearing proper hiking gear—not even proper hiking shoes. In any case, we found a smooth rock where the sun fell perfectly. Since it was a chilly day, there was nothing better than soaking in the sunlight on those rocks, looking out over the deep valley, the gorge, and the old ruined houses. We pulled out our snacks, fruits, and water, and just enjoyed the quietness of the moment.
Right in front of us sat an abandoned village clinging to the cliff side. I'm not sure if it even had an official name, but it was completely empty, with not a single person in sight. Places like that look so mysterious and feel full of ancient stories and memories of the people who used to live there. Now, it was just a ghost village, crumbling away, with most of the mud and stone houses looking like they were about to shatter back into the earth. I completely lost myself for a bit just staring at the buildings, trying to imagine how daily life must have looked for the families who once lived there. These structures look very different from old villages you might see in places like Italy or India—here, there is no other color except the natural sandy tone of the stone.
We sat on that rock for about 30 minutes, chatting and letting our imaginations run wild. To our right side was Al Bilad Los village, which was originally the second stop on the old circuit hike that is now closed. There is a different, newer route to reach that village starting from the main parking spot, and we had initial plans to hike over there as well. But after sitting on our sunny boulder for so long and enjoying a great view of both villages at the same time, we felt satisfied. Rather than trekking all the way down to Al Bilad Los, we decided to just spend a little more time enjoying our current viewpoint and then head straight to our final destination.
📍 Swugra Cliff Village
Our final stop was a café that I know I will never forget for the rest of my life—it was incredibly special. It was another branch of Cafe Anat, but this one is tucked away deep in the mountain ranges of Jebel Akhdar, hanging right over the edge of a massive valley. It is definitely one of the most unique places I have ever stepped foot in. There is absolutely nothing else around the café for kilometers, making it feel completely peaceful, quiet, and calming. We were only visiting for the afternoon, but I felt so compelled to stay the night there (they also run a small cliffside inn). However, convincing Aashish to agree to spontaneous, ad-hoc plans isn't always easy! Obviously, we hadn't brought any of our luggage, clothes, towels, or toiletries up the mountain with us, but I was still totally ready to give it a shot.
Reaching the café is definitely not for the faint-hearted. The initial stretch of the road is well-paved but features incredibly sharp hairpin bends, and the last three to four kilometers consist of purely unpaved, off-road dirt tracks running alongside steep mountain views, deep valleys, and sheer gorges. You shouldn't even dare to drive out there without a proper 4x4 vehicle.
Once you reach the end of the road, there is a free parking spot, and from there, the second phase of the adventure begins: a mandatory hike that takes about an hour. From the starting ridge, you can look across the deep valley and see the café tucked directly into the face of the opposite mountain. It is built entirely in earthy tones using natural stone and local materials, blending in perfectly with the cliffside, with absolutely nothing else nearby. It is so modernly and intricately designed inside, and I honestly couldn't believe my eyes that such a beautiful café could exist in such a remote, wild place.
The hike to reach the entrance takes you through some steep stone stairs, pockets of mountain greenery, and a final uphill stretch that really burns some good calories. It makes you feel like you've earned the treat, because the café offers amazing coffees, cakes, and specialty drinks. Just beside the main ordering counter, there is a natural cave that has been converted into a lounge area with comfortable sofas where you can hang out and enjoy the absolute silence of the canyon. However, when we arrived, it felt a bit too cold in the shadows of the cave, so we avoided it. Instead, we found a beautiful spot out on one of the wooden balconies hanging over the gorge. We ordered our coffees and just sat there, quietly appreciating the majestic surroundings. It truly felt like a spiritual place. After spending two unforgettable hours on that balcony, we had to start making our way back, because driving down those unlit, steep mountain roads in the pitch dark was not going to be wise at all.
📍 Jabal Shams
Our final day in Oman was dedicated to crossing off a few of the country's most spectacular natural and cultural wonders. First up on the itinerary was a drive to Oman’s highest peak: Jabal Shams.
It took us around two hours to weave our way up to the viewpoint, a journey that transitions from smooth tar to rugged, unpaved off-road terrain. Reaching the parking spot feels like stepping onto the edge of the world; it opens up to a breathtaking panorama hanging a dizzying 2,000 meters above the canyon floor. While the main parking area is safely fenced off with steel wires, the path leading towards the peak is completely wild and unprotected, offering raw, unfiltered views right into the mouth of the canyon. As you walk along, the side branches of the gorge reveal themselves, and if you look closely enough, you can spot the river threading through the very bottom.
The altitude here does wonders for the weather—the air is crisp, dry, and cool enough that you'll definitely want to pack a jacket. Jabal Shams is famous for its incredible trekking trails, including the iconic Balcony Walk that hugs the canyon edge, alongside adrenaline-pumping sports like rappelling and rock climbing. Because we were on a tight schedule and hadn't quite geared up for a serious trek, we had to resist the urge to dive into the adventure sports. We contentedly spent an hour walking the perimeter, soaking in the massive, grand scales of a canyon you’d never expect to find in Oman, before making our way back down.
📍Bait Al Safah
The drive down was equally thrilling, offering an entirely new perspective of the rolling hills. An hour later, we arrived at Bait Al Safah.
💡 A quick tip for driving here: The lack of proper road signs can easily trick you into driving right into the historical center of the village. The streets there get incredibly, frustratingly narrow—to the point where a few confused-looking tourists were getting their cars completely wedged in. Learn from our struggle: save yourself the stress, park just outside the center, and enjoy the pleasant 10-minute walk in.
Bait Al Safah is a living museum house that beautifully preserves traditional Omani culture through hands-on experiences. You can explore the rooms independently, but having a guide along offers so much more insight. The house is a maze of discovery. There are rooms dedicated to traditional male and female Omani costumes (which you can try on for photos, though we skipped past that), and cozy lounge areas where you can pause to sip Omani tea and eat fresh dates.
We eventually headed up to the terrace, which opens up to a stunning view of the surrounding village—a beautiful, rustic patchwork of ancient mud-brick houses, some beautifully preserved and others wonderfully weathered and abandoned, with the mountains and traditional falaj water channels framing the distance. Before leaving, we gathered on the ground floor to watch a live demonstration of traditional coffee roasting and bread making. It felt incredibly authentic, and we couldn't resist buying some locally made argan oil and homemade soaps to take home with us.
📍Al Hoota Cave
The final stop of our entire trip was a place that completely blew me away. Hands down, I have never seen a subterranean wonder this massive or beautiful—and having traveled through plenty of caves in Europe and Northeast India, that is saying a lot.
We arrived at Al Hoota Cave around 2:30 PM, parking right outside the sleek visitor center. Luckily for us, the sparse parking lot meant we had the place largely to ourselves. The main cave entrance sits about a kilometer away from the visitor center. While you can easily hike there, they also have a train track (which sadly wasn't running during our visit) and electric carts to shuttle visitors back and forth.
The moment you step inside the cave, the sheer scale hits you. It is phenomenally well-maintained, featuring clean paths, sturdy railings, and masterful lighting that illuminates the deep shadows. The further we ventured into the depths, the more fascinating the ancient, intricate rock formations became.
This cave also hides a massive underground lake where, if you're feeling brave, you can actually go for a swim with a guide. For me, though, just standing at the water's edge and staring into its deep, still surface was enough to give me total chills. It was the perfect, awe-inspiring finale to an unforgettable Omani adventure.
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